Why Buy A Pontoon Boat?

Why Buy A Pontoon Boat?

First of all, it is the only boat that is known as a "Party Boat". However, if you need supplementary reasons there plenty. This type of boat offers many spirited features; the low price, abundance of extra room for stretching out or taking a group of people for a ride. They are also undoubtedly customized to definite needs, and come in various models. Some pontoon boats are intended for fishing, others for cruising, and some have a dual purpose.

What can I do with a pontoon boat?

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There are a wide range of uses for a pontoon boat. The biggest perk that I know of is that you can fit a lot more people than on most other types of boats. The more, the merrier. Right? There are many accessories available that can be added to your pontoon boat to customize it for your use. You can have bench seating all colse to the sides, in rows, or just use lawn furniture and tables. Adding a camper enclosure can make most all pontoons convenient for spending a night on board. Attaching a canopy makes your pontoon boat ready for an afternoon cruise with family and friends by providing shade from the hot sun. For the fishermen; you can get built in livewells, rod holders, and bait buckets. The deck of a pontoon boat also makes a great platform for fishing with the buddies. It is also an ideal boat to use for scuba diving. Some models are even fast enough to pull the kids on water skis, wake boards, or tubes.

These boats are also available with freshwater and toilet facilities.

What is a pontoon boat made of?

A pontoon boat is a lightweight vessel. The hull of the boat is constructed of tubes called pontoons, which taper in at the front of the boat. This allows for good movement and speed in the water. An aluminum frame attaches the pontoons to the deck platform. The deck of a pontoon boat can be made out of wood, aluminum or fiberglass. There is a railing all colse to the deck for safety. This comes in beneficial for the occasions when the boat is used for party cruising.

Where should I take my pontoon boat?

The best place to cruise on your pontoon boat is in a lake, river, or other calm water. They are not made for the sea because of its shallow hull. Waves over two feet will be washing on to the deck of your boat. So I would stay away from the rough waters of the ocean.

Pontoon Facts:

Depending on the size of the Pontoon boat; it can hold in any place from 6-17 people.

The sizes range from 14 to 28 feet.

The average price of a pontoon boat is ,000; with prices ranging in any place from ,000 - ,000 new. A used pontoon boat can range from ,000 - ,000.

Pontoon boats use an outboard machine and stern drive; with horsepower ranging from 10Hp to 135Hp.

Why Buy A Pontoon Boat?

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Kitchen and Bathroom Tips

Kitchen and Bathroom Tips

Kitchen is one of the places for the family to meet, and bathroom is the place here you spend a good bit of time to freshen up every day. It is not good to allow these rooms stay dull and uninviting with all the ideas and materials available today. In this modern world, a traditional kitchen and bathroom will not be absorbing and comfortable. It would be attractive, luxurious and comfortable if you make them technologically sound, irrespective of the space availability. For this, the right establish and high capability goods selection and facility are important. If you want them to be fashionable and hi-tech, you need to take care when selecting counter tops, hardware, cabinets, plumbing, sinks, faucets, wall paint, and floor tiles of your bathroom and kitchen.

The availability of wide variety and colorful designs of kitchen and bathroom tiles and counter tops are on the increase. modern styles like the harlequin design, marble and natural stone tile designs are always desirable, colorful and affordable. Using ceramic tile or slate with radiant heating lets you eliminate the need for a second heat source in the room. Add soothing warmth to kitchen and bathroom floors with electric floor warming systems to make cold floors into soothing, luxuriously warm surfaces. You can use streamlined, shiny, modern faucet instead of a very old fashioned one. Vessel-type sinks are available in a wide range of styles and finishes. It is great to go for high quality, stain-resistant, water-proof and durable wall paint of pleasing colors.

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When considering kitchen style improvement, European-styled cabinetry looks sophisticated and refined, besides maximizing access and storage space of your kitchen. Ensure that the cabinetry is made of finest materials. Home kitchen appliances make this room technical and convenient.

If you are the one to appreciate the finer points of bathroom establish details, make it to have a soothing environment. The traditional bath and shower products and toilet are not up to the mentality of the new generation individuals. A jet stream Jacuzzi tub with a frosted glass basin sink and free form rock wall shower look stylish. The walk-in baths/ bath-tubs, slide-in baths and walk-in baths with power seats and dual draining theory are designed and engineered to be attractive, safe, functional, convenience and comfort. One-piece toilet lends your bathroom a furnished look rather than a functional look. These toilets have built-in water efficiency and sound modulation, so that flushing is discreet.

Ensure that your bathroom and kitchen are designed by experienced and noteworthy persons, so that your kitchen and bathroom functions well and satisfy your sense of style. Many licensed home correction contractors and aid professionals are there to solve your problem of manufacture your kitchen and bathroom technologically sound. There are some relevant websites providing educational programs to help you in giving ideas for designing and furnishing these rooms.

With all of the choices available today, you can enhance the look and technical aspects of your kitchen and bathroom. There are a amount of establish features and fittings that can enhance kitchen and bathroom power efficiency, and sell out power bills and greenhouse pollution. But the modeling/ remodeling costs are always an obstacle for bringing your kitchen and bathroom into reality. Unless you are wealthy, most habitancy face the problem of dealing with manufacture your kitchen and bathroom technologically sound. Meticulous planning could furnish some ways to make them hi-tech to some extent.

Kitchen remodeling may gift a good chance to replace old windows with new power Star windows. While costs do not always illustrate the turn from purely an power savings perspective, there may be other benefits of new windows. More effective windows may be less prone to condensation and linked mold growth. Painted window sashes and frames in homes built before 1978 may contain lead-based paint; this is a extra concern because the disagreement of chance and closing windows can release lead dust into the home.

Flooring must not only have a good degree of protection from harm by water, but should also prevent water which does get on the floor from penetrating to the sub floor and space below.
Do not install carpeting near water sources or areas where there is a perpetual moisture problem such as nearby sinks, tubs, showers, and toilets. To sell out the possible for microbial growth in the joints of hard surfaces or porous flooring installed near water sources, be sure to seal the whole surface.

While remodeling or improving the power efficiency of your home, steps should be taken to minimize pollution from sources inside the home. In addition, residents should be alert to signs of inadequate ventilation, such as stuffy air, moisture condensation on cold surfaces, or mold and mildew growth and use the remodeling project to correct fundamental problems. While all of our general recommendations may not apply to your home, you should be aware of the issues, from radon and lead, to ventilation, and good work practices.

Despite good ventilation, moisture-laden air from the bathroom can still make it's way into wall and ceiling cavities. A bathroom remodeling project may gift chance to enhance air-sealing. Electrical, plumbing, and ventilation penetrations should be sealed where they are accessible or in any walls that are opened. Depending on how they were constructed, soffit can be troublesome to air-seal, but if you are replacing bath fixtures or cabinets, you may be able to access space that would otherwise be difficult to reach.

Basement remodeling may gift a good chance to replace old windows with new power Star® windows. While costs do not always illustrate the turn from purely an power savings perspective, there may be other benefits of new windows. More effective windows may be less prone to condensation and linked mold growth. Painted window sashes and frames in homes built before 1978 may contain lead-based paint; this is a extra concern because the disagreement of chance and closing windows can release lead dust into the home.

Most home heating and cooling systems, including forced air heating systems, do not mechanically bring fresh air into the house. chance windows and doors, operating window or attic fans, when the weather permits, or running a window air-conditioner with the vent operate open increases the ventilation rate. Local bathroom or kitchen fans that exhaust outdoors take off contaminants, including moisture, directly from the room where the fan is located and also growth the outdoor air ventilation rate.

Kitchen and Bathroom Tips

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Dry Wall Patching - 5 Steps to Successfully Repairing a Hole in the Wall

Dry Wall Patching - 5 Steps to Successfully Repairing a Hole in the Wall

Drywall patching requires patience and persistence. I am going to break the process down beyond doubt so you will be more informed before you start your next dry wall patch.One thing you must think when working with drywall is the Dust. If you are sensitive to the drywall dust or gypsum you may want to get a particle mask, security goggles or gloves and wear a long sleeve shirt for protection. Don't forget to protect any home furnishings that you want to keep dust free, too!

Step1: prep the hole or area to be patched.

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If the hole or area to be patched has loose wall board paper you will need to remove the loose paper and gypsum. Now if the wall board paper wants to continue tearing up the side of the wall, a way to stop this is the take a razor knife and cut back from the loose area about an inch or so. What you are doing is scoring the wall so when you tear of the loose paper it will come to the scored line and not tear further causing a larger area to need patch work. If after you have removed the loose paper and the gypsum board underneath is crumbled and barely hanging to the wall, you need to knock out all the loose gypsum. Loose paper and gypsum will cause the drywall blend to not bond strongly and may create a bubble you will see only after coating with compound. As part of the prep, you may want to quadrate up the hole so you can more beyond doubt cut the piece of sheetrock that will fill the void.

Ok so the area is prepped and now we will need to move to step 2, which will instruct you on how to properly attach a piece of sheetrock cut to fill the hole in your wall or ceiling.

Step 2: back framing the hole to attach the sheetrock you will cut to fill the void.

Just like with new building you will need to have wood framing to screw the sheetrock into. To explain, I will use an example patch area of one foot by one foot. You will need to cut a 2x4 into two 16" lengths. You will need to regain a cordless or electric drill and about a dozen 1¼ " wood screws. Take one of the 2x4's you have cut and slide it in the hole and behind the existing sheetrock, along one side of the hole. The surmise the 2x4 is longer (16") than the 12" hole is because we will extend it a integrate of inches beyond the top and bottom. So now you have a 2x4 inside the wall on one side, the 2x4 needs to be laying flat against the inside of the wall, it will not be turned so the 4" width of the 2x4 is flat against the inside, this will give us a larger covering for attachment as apposed to the proper way of framing which would be with the 2" width facing the sheetrock. You will want to eyeball, best as possible the 2x4 and split the discrepancy of the board width between the existing sheetrock and where you will attach the piece of sheetrock you will cut for the patch. Now that the 2x4 is held in the spoton position you will need to screw the 2x4 into the existing drywall by retention tightly to the board and screwing into it straight through the face of the existing sheetrock. You will put two screws along the edge and one on the top and lowest of the existing sheetrock to strongly regain the 2x4 to accept piece of sheetrock you will cut. Once you have completed one side, repeat the same course on the other side. So when you have concluded back framing you now have a strong frame to attach the patch piece of sheetrock. * Note - if you have a hole to patch where there are framing, electric or mechanical issues in the way that keep you from sliding the 2x4 behind the wall to screw down the side, you can screw in the top and lowest of the 2x4 and this will be sufficient. You may also think attaching the 2x4 back framing across the top and lowest of the hole as apposed to attaching the 2x4's on the sides, just use the same instructions of attachment for the sides or top and bottom.

Now that the prep and framing are faultless next we will cut a piece of sheetrock to insert into the framed hole in step 3.

Step 3: take a determination of the hole and cut a piece of sheetrock to fit and regain it.

It does not have to fit super tight but it will need to fit and be screwed to the back framing you installed. You should put 2-3 screws down each side attaching the piece of sheetrock you cut to the framing. * Note- all the screws will need to be "set" below the covering of the sheetrock but not deep sufficient that the screw head tears the paper face on the sheetrock, unset screws will show and interfere with the next step. **Note sheetrock comes in two thicknesses for most residential building -1/2" and 5/8". ½" is usually on the interior walls/ceilings and 5/8" is used on underside of stairs and in the garage.

Well you're production develop and you have filled the void with sheetrock, now we will move on to the coating or finishing phase of the dry wall blend (mud) explained in step 4.

Step 4: coating the patch with drywall blend (mud).

As I was saying in step 3 the piece of sheetrock you cut to fill the hole does not have to fit super tight. If the sheetrock you cut has a gap colse to the border/joint of it and where it meets the existing wall board, you should pre fill the area before applying the drywall tape. So just take a itsybitsy blend and fill in the edges and plane the excess flat wit the wall, allow to dry. Next is to apply the drywall tape so that after we are all concluded there will not be a crack colse to the joint of the patched hole. For patch work I like to use a "mesh" or "fiber" tape, it provides a stronger hold and the mesh tape is much more forgiving than regular drywall tape, in the since you do not have to pre mud the wall to cleave the tape. The mash tape has a sticky backing, so all you do is cut the mesh tape to the distance you need, stick it on the wall with the middle of the mesh tape running right in line with the joint or crack. The mesh tape should always run past the joint at least an inch. Repeat this process for all four sides of the patch. Next apply a coat of blend colse to the perimeter of the patch, over the mesh tape. The mesh will be slightly descriptive after only one coat. * Note - If you apply to much blend (mud) you will have a hump in the surface. Allow this coat to dry, sand lightly, mostly to knock of any knife edges that dried in the blend and could cause the next coat to build up to much. You do not want to try and mud the patch in just 1 coat, it is best to apply a moderate/thin coat allow to dry, sand and coat again. After all the coats (at least two) have dried and you are satisfied that the covering is coated evenly, sand the mud to even the surface. * Note - a less than excellent coating job can be smoothed out with sanding. Sanding along the covering edge of the mud too, will blend the patched area best into the existing surface. A beyond doubt neat trick is after you have sanded the patch, take a wet sycophant or rag and "wash" the covering mud of the patch blending it even best into the existing surface, this trick will help you avoid seeing a mud line colse to the patch when it is completed. If your home has a plane texture, this is the last step, your ready to paint. If you do not have a plane texture you will need to read on.

Only one more step and the drywall part of your patch will be complete, texture. We will discuss varied textures and how to apply the in step 5.

Step 5: there are many textures and you must first know how to recognize your existing texture before going forward.

Older homes may have a swirl, crows foot, hand or plane texture. Newer homes for the most part use smooth, orange peel, knockdown and hand textures. For a crows foot you will need a crows foot or stomp texture brush. For swirl texture you may have to consult a dry wall victualer store for the spoton texture brush or experiment with a few different brushes. For a hand texture you can use a dry wall knife or trowel. All of the above mentioned textures require a tool or brush to apply drywall blend to perform the texture. The next two textures can be purchased in a spray can, orange peel and knock down. * Note - with all textures it is good to get an old piece of plywood or cardboard and experiment first to find the right amount of pressure, thickness of mud, technique and set up time to create the right look to best conceal that a repair was ever made. As always if you texture the wall and are not happy with the results you can was the texture of immediately with a wet sycophant of rag, allow to dry and try texturing again or sand of a bad texture if you are not happy with it after it has been allowed to dry. * Note - Knockdown texture size can be manipulated by letting the sprayed on texture set up or dry for less or more time depending on the desired look.

We have discussed the 5 steps needed to professionally repair a drywall patch. 1) properly prep the area to be patched. 2) back frame the opening. 3) size and cut the sheetrock to fill the opening. 4) apply mesh tape and mud to plane the surface. 5) opt and apply proper texture.

So go out and "get your drywall on". You can check out my description on painting walls if you need assistance with the painting. Feel free to leave a annotation about any other branch you would like me to write on pertaining to drywall. Please check out our website, dennardbloss.com, it is all about our building finishes.

Dry Wall Patching - 5 Steps to Successfully Repairing a Hole in the Wall

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Dealing With Warped Wood

Dealing With Warped Wood

Perhaps the woodworker's biggest nightmare, warped wood can be highly frustrating to have to deal with. But with a slight palpate and a integrate tricks up your sleeve, you can save yourself from a pretty major headache.

Wood is often imperfect

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A tasteless mistake beginners make is assuming a piece of lumber is level "because they bought it at the home center", and finding out - painfully - that it's as crooked as a dog's hind leg. For the record, just because someone's selling it, it doesn't mean it's level or "A grade", and it also doesn't mean it will Stay level even if it is so initially. When constructing areas of the house that wish straightness, such as door & window frames, wall corners, etc, it's quite crucial that your boards are straight. Any more than a 1:2~3000 (1mm every 2 to 3000) bow is unacceptable for most precision projects. A habit I have when buying lumber at the local home center is checking the straightness of the piece by putting my eye on the corner and finding down its length.

With this method you should be able to easily detect bows as well as twists - which are equally if not More agonizing! But when all is said and done, there will be times when for some odd think you still seem to wind up with that confounded "S" shaped board! Like I mentioned earlier, wood often doesn't seem to want to stay the same shape. In fact, "new" wood, or wood that hasn't been dried, will most easily convert shape in some way. That's one think quarter-sawn wood is so expensive - because due to its grain, it's considerably less likely to warp or twist. (It's also in large part due to its beautiful patterns.)

Dealing with the Consequences

Anyway, for those of us who can't afford quarter-sawn boards just for a funky window frame, but want to make it look halfway respectable, we may need to opt for the economy "plain-sawn" boards. Having said that, I'm happy to add that plain-sawn boards are more than adequate as long as you pick them right - or are prepared to "deal with the consequences". "Dealing with the consequences" however, may not be as bad as it sounds. To deal with a board with a warp along the distance of the edge (crook), all you need to do is trim off those offending edges.

Take a straight-edge and use the method I outlined in "Cut a excellent Line with a Circular Saw" (search my current articles for this title). (This method will not work with larger lumber that's thicker than the saw blade's maximum depth.) Because you will be left with a board that is shy the estimate you just trimmed off, it's wise to buy wood that is slightly wider than easily important when there is a risk of warping - which is in most cases and especially when you might not be using the boards right away. Note that the longer wood is allowed to sit and "season", the more time you're giving it to warp.

Dealing with twists in your boards requires a more "brute force" policy of action. Assuming the board will be level as long as you bend it "flat" and keep it that way, what needs to be done is fairly straight-forward. You plainly need to come up with a way that military the wood to bend in the direction you want it to, while at the same time ensuring the opposite end doesn't start twisting out in the other direction. For example, say you want to build a very simple rectangular door frame but your vertical boards look like screws. (Note that in real life there is only a unavoidable degree of twisting a piece of wood can be "made" to recover from.) Attach the 2 vertical boards to the top horizontal one first.

This will essentially "lock" the 3 sides to each other. You now position the somewhat delicate frame into its place in the wall. Because the top half has been secured together, it should now be "locked" in the middle of the wall studs unable to move except by applying force with a mallet or such. But the lowest half of policy is still free-hanging like a rag doll and can be manipulated at will. Being that the vertical boards were twisted and you secured the top ends at 90 degree angles, the lowest ends should now be displaying the full glory of the twists.

Make your final position within the wall studs and pop a screw up near the top through the studs and into the frame. - You probably don't want any graphic screw or nail heads on the face of your door frame. This is to gather the top end so it won't shift, leaving you to confidently focus all your energies on the lowest end. Cut out a scrap board that's as wide as the door frame is supposed to be, and with a sliver of plywood on whether end to safe the frame surface, hammer the board down into the side of the frame that's twisting in. This will essentially force the twist to flatten out.

Screwing from the studs into the frame only works if the frame board is thick enough, otherwise you'll have to go from the face into the studs. You can conceal screw or nail heads by adding a piece of trimming over the row of heads, or if you're going to be adding a door, the door stop trimming can do this for you. The only problem is that if the vertical frame board is too twisted, screws along the center won't be in the right position to pin the twist down. In this case, the only alternative if you still want to use this board, is to counter-sink the screw/s in the allowable position - most likely on one of the edges - and putty up the hole afterward.

Being that it'll be toward the lowest of the door frame, it won't be so noticeable, but you'll still have to be prepared to live with an imperfect frame if you go this route. But at the end of it all, you may find that it's best to just start out with better wood even if it is a bit more expensive. Not everybody has what it takes to patiently work with flawed materials and somehow make it turn out like there was nothing wrong. This is something that takes experience, skill, patience, and sometimes just pure luck! Weigh out the pros and cons and don't be penny-wise but pound-foolish! Time is money so you should factor in man-hours on the project when calculating what's more economical.

Dealing With Warped Wood

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Toilet Safety Rails

Review for Toilet Safety Rails

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Toilet Safety Rails Technical Details

• Aluminum bracket easily attaches frame to toilet
• Armrest provides comfort and support
• Adjustable height and width
• Weight capacity 250 lbs

Toilet Safety Rails Reviews

Toilet Safety Rails. Aluminum bracket easily attaches frame to toilet. Armrest provides comfort and support. Adjustable height and width. Weight capacity 250 lbs. Readmore .. .

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Woodworking Plans - How to Build a Work Bench

Woodworking Plans - How to Build a Work Bench

If you are a woodworker, and you still do not have a workbench for your projects, now is the time to make one! Having a workbench will cut the time of your projects in half since you will have somewhere to put everything.

To start out, you need 2x4's, screws and one piece of 26x48" Osb. The first step is to originate a lower rectangular frame. This is done by screwing four 2x4's into a rectangular pattern using a screwdriver. Next, the legs need to be made. To do this, get your 2x4's and screw them into the inner corners of the rectangular base that you made. The legs should fit very snugly into the frame. After doing this, you need to made other rectangular frame nearby the tops of the legs in order to be able to put the sheet of Osb on.

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Once the frame has been screwed together, place the sheet of Osb on top of the upper rectangular frame and screw sheet of Osb into place. Saw off any excess Osb that doesn't fit perfectly on the upper frame. You want to do that because if you are using heavy equipment, the Osb won't preserve the weight without the help of the frame, so the Osb would snap and lead to a nasty injury. This is a very foremost step and precaution. If done correctly, the workbench is complete.

Now you can officially call yourself a woodworker! You may now go off and repair or build whatever you please with the help of your new workbench.

Woodworking Plans - How to Build a Work Bench

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development an chance For a Door Or Window

development an chance For a Door Or Window

The 1st step is to buy the door or window then consequent the instructions. What you are seeing for is the size of the estimated opening, the length in the middle of the pieces of framing that sustain the door or window. It will be slightly larger than the size of the door or window.

Remove the trim with a pry bar and hammer, then protect the floor with drop cloths. Cover interior doorways with plastic to confine dust. Shut off power and water that may run straight through the wall. Take off electrical cover plates and heating duct covers if they are located in the area to be removed.

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Mark the area of the wall you will remove. Put a security glasses and a dust mask. On drywall, cut along the layout line with a utility knife. On plaster, cut the line with a circular saw, cutting straight through the lath but not into the studs. Take off the plaster or drywall exterior with a hammer and pry bar.

All exterior walls are load bearing, so you will need to supply sustain for the floor and roof above while you work. Begin by using a stud finder to find the joists nearest the are you're opening. Brace them with jack posts and a 36-inch 2x6, which is long adequate to span the joists. Interior walls that have a double top plate are also load bearing and will need the same support.

Remove the studs. First relocate wires and pipes that are in the way. Cut them at top and lowest with a reciprocating saw or push the studs from side to side and pry them out with a pry bar. You may be able to reuse some of the material for jack or cripple studs when you frame the opening.

Lay out the framing on the soleplate. Start by drawing lines marking the edges of the rough opening. Measure 3 inches exterior the opening, and draw a line marking the exterior edge of the king stud you will use to help frame the opening.

Toenail the king studs in place, with four 8d nails at each end. Then cut a jack stud long adequate to reach from the soleplate to the top of the rough opening. Nail it to the king studs you just installed. On non-load-bearing walls, nail a 2x4 header over the top of the trimmer. On load-bearing walls, nail a built-up header in place. Cut short short pieces of 2x4 to fit in the middle of the top of the header and the top plate. Nail pieces with 16d nails and then toenail them in place with four 8d nails.

1. If framing a door, cut straight through and Take off the soleplate.
2. If framing a window, mark the lowest of the rough opening on the jack studs. Cut a rough sill to fit snugly in the middle of the jack studs, and wedge it in place. Make sure it's level and toenail it in place. Cut cripple studs to fit in the middle of the sill and soleplate; One under each end, and one every 16 inches.

Nail the cripple studs in place.
1. For Doors toenail cripple studs in the middle of the header and the top plate every 16 inches.
2. For windows install cripple studs every 16 inches in the middle of the sill and the soleplate and the header and the top plate.

When you are ready to install the door or window, Take off the wall section behind it. Start by drilling straight through the wall at at each projection of the rough opening. Put the blade of a reciprocating saw in one of the holes and cut along the trimmer until you reach the next hole. Continue until you have cut out the sheathing.

development an chance For a Door Or Window

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